Part 3   Miso & Shoyu

MISO
There are two origins of miso. One is as follows: about 1st Century B.C. when the former inhabitants of the Japanese Islands started to manufacture salt, they made gkokubishio (a preserving agent)h by fermenting grains such as rice, wheat, and beans to preserve salt. The other origin is as follows: gHishioh and gKukih ( fermented foods including salt and soy beans) which were made in ancient China, were introduced from the Korean peninsula to Japan in the Yamato era. It is from these two@sources that miso is thought to have originated. According to the Chinese ancient writing gShuraih, many kinds of gHishioh were manufactured in about 700 B.C. the Shu period.
Both views are considered correct. In the Nara era,(7th Century A.D. to 8th Century A.D.) the period when fermented foods were increasingly being produced, gHishioh was made from various kinds of grains and it was called gMishoh. Miso and soy sauce were the same things. In the Kamakura era (13th Century A.D.), earthenware mortars were used and people began to make miso soup. This custom was started by buddist monk who came to Japan from China. But miso was too expensive for ordinary citizens. They ate tsubu miso, crushed soy bean paste, as it was, uncooked. Miso soup became popular in the Muromachi era (14th Century to 15th Century AD), when the production of soy beans increased. People made miso by themselves at home. After that, the style of a gsimple meal of rice, soup, and a single dishh was established as the basic Japanese eating habit.
As a seasoning , many kinds of recipes using miso have been created and are continually being developed.
One of the typical examples is miso ramen, Chinese noodles in a miso broth,which is now very popular.
Miso is mainly made from soy beans nowadays. There are many types and they are specific to local areas. Some of the famous ones are Shinshu miso,
Sendai miso, Echigo miso, Saikyo miso, and Haccho miso. Miso is made in the following way: steam or cook soy beans and mash them. Add rice koji, or wheat koji and salt, and pack them into containers for a half year to one year. The first process (steaming the soy beans, add koji, salt then packing them) is known as gShikomih. The following process is gJukusei maturingh.
There are two miso manufacturers in Hitachi, Sano Miso Manufacturing in Kawajiri and Uchiyama Miso Manufacturing in Mizuki. The latter uses domestically produced soybeans. This shop was established in 1872. It has a history of more than 130 years. The owner is the sixth generation operator of the shop. In a nationwide miso contest, the best prize went to the home made miso of this shop. The owner runs a store gMizuki no shoh on the other side of Izumigamori on Route 245.
Shoyu (soy sauce)
  The origin of shoyu in Japan is assumed to be gfermented cornh (’Ý in Chinese) called ghishioh (in Japanese) which was introduced from China in the Tang era (the 7th - 8th century), and later in 1254 Kakushin, a Zen priest, who had been to China in the Sung era, introduced into Japan an improved process for making miso having been developed at the Keizanji temple. They continued to work out the process and finally found that they could use the liquid leached out of the miso, which stood at the bottom of a miso container, as a seasoning. That was the beginning of gtamari shoyuh. It is said that shoyu was first used as a separate seasoning from misho or hishio described in the miso article above in the Muromachi era (the 14th - 15th century) and that the birthplace of it was Yuasa Town in Wakayama Prefecture.
The miso industry was first developed in the Kansai region in Japan, and then in the Kanto region, Mr. Ichirobei Iida started to make shoyu at Noda in Chiba Prefecture in 1561. In 17th century, shoyu production was also started in Choshi. At present, Kikkoman Co. originated at Noda has made inroads into the American continent and shoyu is now one of the most famous seasonings around the world.
Commonly used shoyu of rich color and taste, known as gkoikuchi shoyuh, is made from soybeans (the base of the flavor), wheat (the base of the fragrance), and salt, according to the process classified roughly into the following 3 steps:
koji making ... steamed soybeans, parched and cracked wheat, and seed koji (ferment) are mixed to yield gshoyu kojih in about 3 days;
preparation ... the shoyu koji mixed with salt water is fermented and matured for 6 months - 1 year or even more to yield gmoromih.
finishing ... the moromi packed in a bag is squeezed taking much time to leach out gki-joyuh (raw shoyu). The ki-joyu is stood for 3 - 4 days in a clarifying tank for skimming off any oil floating on the top and for removing any sediment at the bottom, and then heated through what is known as glightingh to yield a final product.
Although miso has often been made in each house to provide for that household until recently, since it can be made relatively easily in each home, shoyu has been made by people representing each village or purchased from local shoyu makers, since it needs some large scale machinery for its manufacturing. They say there were about 200 shoyu makers in Ibaraki Prefecture just after World War‡U, but at present there remain only 23 - 24.
  In Hitachi City, Uchiyama Shoyu Co. and Tamahime Shoyu Co. are producing shoyu in the Mizuki area. Our reporter visited Tamahime and saw Mr. Zensuke Sato the 5th in a line of family heads, who after retiring from a certain musical instrument maker, succeeded to the job 15 years ago and seems to enjoy himself the best when making shoyu, in spite of some worries when he first started the job. He is very particular about producing shoyu with traditional instruments, and showed me a big old moromi cask and also an old manual squeezer corresponding to the foundation of the company back to 1884.
  You can buy Tamahime shoyu at the stand in the Civic Center and also at the shop gYottekeh recently opened in Ginza Mall.

Uchiyama Shoyu Co.

Tamahime Shoyu Co.

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